Adventures in The Chilterns on the 33
Catch the 33 bus to Wallingford, Nuffield Place and Henley-on-Thames, enjoying some scenic adventures in the Chilterns on the way.
Our bus route 33 takes you past characterful villages, historic houses, undulating countryside and secluded woodlands. En route, you can sup at ancient inns, visit engaging museum, stroll through pretty meadows and try your hand at river boating.
With so much to see when travelling on the 33, we’ve compiled just a few of our favourites to make your adventures in the Chilterns one to remember!
Wallingford
A small market town in South Oxfordshire, perhaps best known as a well-used filming location for Midsomer Murders and the preserved rural ‘Bunk Line’ railway linking Wallingford with the mainline at Cholsey.
Hop off the 33 at Wallingford Market Place for most attractions.
Cholsey & Wallingford Railway
Just a 10-minute chug from the 33’s Wallingford Market Place bus stop brings you to the Cholsey & Wallingford Railway. Hop aboard an iconic 1950s coach, hauled by either a Heritage diesel locomotive or visiting steam engine, for a 45-minute round trip between Wallingford and Cholsey.
See the stunning Oxfordshire countryside as you choo-choo through rolling hills. Along the way, keep an eye out for landmarks , like St Mary’s Church, the resting place of Agatha Christie, and the chalk hills of Wittenham Clumps. Red Kites have been known to tag along, circling above the train, awhile deer can be seen roaming through the local meadows.
Trains operate on weekends and bank holidays; be sure to book in advance to secure your seat.
Wallingford Museum
Open year-round, history comes to life at the Wallingford Museum! Experience the sights and sounds of the history of Wallingford, spanning from Saxon settlement and Roman occupation to Victorian industry and genre-defining literature.
The museum also hosts regular events and exhibitions, so there’s always something new to see when visiting on the 33. Throughout the summer, the museum’s guided walks take you around key locations in Wallingford, with your friendly guides sharing stories about the area’s rich history and significance.
The museum itself is housed in an oak-beamed medieval house, just 4 minutes from the 33 bus stop. Packed with ancient artefacts and faithful recreations that bring Wallingford’s history to life, make a point of visiting Wallingford Museum on your next bus trip to the town.
Wallingford Castle and Gardens
A short stroll from the museum are the ruins of a medieval castle, built on the direct orders of William the Conqueror in 1067. The likely architect was Robert D’Oyly, the same man who built Oxford Castle, from which Empress Matilda escaped to Wallingford in 1141. From royal residents and wars of succession to notorious prisons and escaping felons, the historical significance of Wallingford Castle cannot be understated.
The attractive Wallingford Castle grounds are free of charge to the public and contain the best-preserved sections of the castle. If you climb to the top, you will glimpse views of the Thames. The adjacent castle meadows are also home to some diverse natural habitats, and in Spring, an early display of snowdrops around the site of a former Victorian grotto is gradually replaced by a sweeping carpet of bluebells.
Wallingford Museum offer a self-guided tour of the grounds to help you make the most of your visit; just play the appropriate video at each stop to learn more!
Corn Exchange
The Grade II listed Corn Exchange is well worth a peek, even if you’re just strolling past. Home to the town’s theatre and cinema, this storied venue was famously championed by Agatha Chrisitie, a patron of the Sinodun Players and regular visitor.
Today, this small but impressive venue hosts a mix of theatre, art, live music and film in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The Exchange Foyer bar serves up evening drinks, as well as coffee and homemade cakes on select mornings.
Why not catch the 33 bus for a late-night screening or evening show? With late-night services, it's easier than ever for culture lovers to catch performances and films at the Corn Exchange’s historic venue.
Self-guided Agatha Christie trail
Learn more about the Queen of Crime, novelist Agatha Christie, as you explore her home of more than 40 years.
This six-mile circular walking route leads you on a trail to locations significant to her life. Sleuth past her beloved home at Winterbrook House, twirl your moustache in Cholsey Village, then pay your respects at her resting place at St Mary’s Church.
The trail begins just a few minutes away from the 33’s bus stop, so it’s a great option for literary fans who want to stretch their legs, and even better for when you’re worn out afterwards! To take the trail, either download the map or visit the Visitor Information Centre to pick up a copy.
Self-guided Midsomer Murders trail
In contrast to its TV counterpart, Causton, Wallingford is quite safe. However, for fans of the popular series, this self-guided walk follows the footsteps of Inspector Barnaby through key filming locations across the town. Both the Town Hall and Corn Exchange feature prominently throughout the series, used as the backdrop for many memorable scenes and conversations amongst the main cast.
To explore the real-life Midsomer for yourself, download the map or pop into the Visitor Information Centre to pick up a copy for yourself.
Other ways to explore Wallingford
In addition to the self-guided routes above, there’s plenty more to discover on foot in Wallingford. Take a meander along the river, explore the ruins and go for a jaunt through charming old streets. If you’re after something with a bit more structure, the Visitor Information Centre stocks lots of walking trails for you to follow, as well as some recommendations of personal favourites from the team.
After all that exploring, why not stop to enjoy a meal in a local pub by the river? The Boathouse is a Greene King pub, serving up consistently tasty food and well-kept drinks, all on a riverside terrace. If the weather’s not in your favour, then there’s plenty of seating inside, as well as a conservatory so you can still enjoy the views.
Right outside the pub, you can also hire a boat with Pure Boating. Perfect for a sunny day, canopied boats are available to hire for trips up and down the river at your leisure. All the boats are fully electric and self-driven, letting you explore the river at your own pace and see the town from a whole new perspective.
Crowmarsh Gifford
After the Normal Conquest in 1066, a large area of land was gifted to Walter Giffard, the first Earl of Buckingham. This land, over time, was built up into the village of Crowmarsh Gifford.
This ancient village is perhaps best known for having only one street, imaginatively named “The Street”, and for being the place where agriculturalist Jethro Tull revolutionized farming with the invention of the horse-drawn seed drill. His cottages can still be found on the northern side of The Street.
If you're visiting Crowmarsh Gifford, get off the 33 at the Church, Home Farm or Meadow Lane.
St Mary Magdalene Church
Dating back to at least 1140, the Church of St. Mary Magdalene is the oldest building in Crowmarsh Gifford. In the 11th century, it served as a key fortification during the Anarchy, and later played a critical role in the English Civil War, when Cromwell’s Roundheads sought refuge here from Cavalier forces. If you look closely at the vestry door, you may even spot some canon ball holes.
With stunning stained-glass windows, an original Norman font and a beautifully carved Jacobean pulpit, why not pop in to have a mosey around on your next 33 journey?
Walking in Crowmarsh Gifford
With Crowmarsh Gifford, and its surrounding areas being so pretty, why not take a walk to explore it for yourself? Inside the church, you’ll find several guides outlining different walks that showcase what the area has to offer. Taking around an hour to complete, you’ll start at Wallingford Bridge, before heading to landmarks like a medieval leper hospital, 12th-century siege forts, the home of agriculturalist Jethro Tull, and the centuries-old Queens Head pub, which still serves up delicious food and drinks today.
If it’s countryside you’re after, try the Grim’s Ditch and Thames Path loop. Also starting at Wallingford Bridge, this moderate hiking route takes around four and a half hours and offers some stunning views of the River Thames. Along the way, you’ll visit the ancient earthworks of Grim’s Ditch. A Scheduled Ancient Monument, this section of the ditch likely dates to the Iron Age and may have been used to mark boundaries, create trade routes or even serve as some kind of white chalk monument. The route also passes through the charming villages of Mongewell and North Stoke, both worth a visit in their own right. Take the trail in the spring to see the carpet of bluebells that are dotted along the way.
Nuffield
A small village in the heart of the Chilterns, Nuffield is home to listed buildings, Norman churches and Nuffield Place, once home to William Morris and now a National Trust property. The earliest record of Nuffield date back to the early 13th-century, known then as Togfelde, an Old English name meaning “field by a spur of hill”.
When visiting Nuffield, alight from the 33 at Nuffield Place to see everything the village has to offer.
Nuffield Place
Just outside of Henley-on-Thames is Nuffield Place, the former residence of William Morris, Lord Nuffield, the founder of the Morris Motor Car and a fan of gadgets and clocks. Despite his enormous riches, Lord Nuffield and his wife, Elizabeth, chose to live simply, donating a large portion of their income to a number of charitable organisations. Because of this, the Nuffield name lends itself to many places in Oxfordshire, including Nuffield College at the University of Oxford, which was founded on the back of a donation from the couple.
Their home and furniture are exactly as it was when they departed, from the small black and white TV in the lounge to Lord Nuffield's concealed miniature workshop, where he used to be constantly repairing something, including his own shoes.
There is a shop above that sells Morris Motors and MG memorabilia, as well as a second-hand bookshop. Outside, you’ll find a coffee kiosk overlooking the wildflower meadow that serves hot drinks, cakes, and scones.
The Maker Space
Inside a 17th-century Grade II listed former pub, you’ll find a modern craft venue called The Maker Space. Lovingly restored by the current owners, it features workrooms where visitors can try their hand at a range of activities, from quilting to mosaic making. On a Tuesday, the Makers’ Morning is an opportunity to get together and have a chat with like-minded folk. Bring along your current project to sit, converse and get inspired. Best of all, it’s free to attend, you may even pick up some new techniques to take home with you.
On site, you’ll also find the Maker Space shop. Selling kits, crafts and materials, visitors will find everything they need to create stunning textiles, art pieces and more at home, utilising skills learned from the workshops.
Sewing, making and crafting is hungry work, thankfully the onsite café is ready and waiting. Sublime coffees, speciality teas, homemade cakes and superb savouries are all on offer to tempt you.
The Ridgeway
Britain’s oldest road, The Ridgeway links the chalk ridges of the Berkshire Downs in Wiltshire to East Anglia. Used for at least 5,000 years, the trail provided a key trading route and measured protection from potential attacks. The road has been used by Iron Age inhabitants, Roman soldiers, Saxon and Viking armies and drovers moving their livestock from the West Country and Wales to London.
Cutting through Nuffield, the Ridgeway is a great opportunity for some unique walks and to explore some ancient history. More inclined towards experienced walkers, the Ridgeway Loop 13 starts and ends in Nuffield, not far from the 33 bus stop. Taking around 5 hours, the trail follows the local section of the Ridgeway and Grim’s Ditch, before swinging past farmers fields and into the villages of Mongewell, North Stoke and Ipsden. Take some time along the way to stop for a picnic, or simply a breather, on Warren Bank, a flowery chalk grassland offering stunning panoramic views of the Berkshire Downs and Thames.
Nettlebed
Nobody really knows quite how Nettlebed earned its name, although tradition has it that Roman troops in the first and second century AD rubbed nettles on their limbs to keep warm while marching. Whether that's true or not, Nettlebed became a significant location in ancient times since it was where the Henley to Oxford Road crossed the Chilterns, making it a vital staging point. To this day it is a popular thoroughfare between both locations.
It may not be the most obvious stopping point, but it is the ideal base for exploring the countryside. It is home to a historic 15th-century pub (the last one still standing there), a late 17th-century conical bottle kiln, and an organic farm and creamery, whose shop and café are popular with walkers, families, cyclists, and dogs alike.
Visiting Nettlebed on the 33? Hop off at The Green to explore the area for yourself.
Nettlebed Creamery
Proudly organic, Nettlebed Creamery is a must-see stop on the 33 for dairy lovers. The farm behind everything has been in the same family since 1901, expanding to a dairy in 1950 and opening the Creamery in 2015. Carefully crafting award-winning artisan cheese, milk and kefir, the dairy prioritises happy cows and local biodiversity above all else.
The onsite Shed Shop sells bread, eggs, honey, pickles and other bits and bobs for you to enjoy at home. Everything on sale either comes from the farm or is locally sourced from other producers whose ethos aligns with that of Nettlebed Creamery’s. If you find something you really like, you can also shop online and have your favourites delivered straight to your door.
Getting hungry? The Cheese Shed serves up ice-creams, cakes and snacks, as well as locally ground coffee and milk from the farm. Cheese is, of course, the highlight here with a range of toasties, pizzas and cheesy delights also on offer.
Walking in and around Nettlebed
Starting at Nettlebed Creamery, there are many scenic walking routes that pass through Nettlebed itself. Taking in the village's 18th-century bottle kiln, surrounding wildlife hotspots and more, these walks show you some of the best and most interesting things the area has to offer, all passing within easy reach of the Cheese Shed for refreshments.
On the website, you can also find some kid’s nature activity sheets to download before you go. Created by the Creamery, these sheets aim to make the walks even more entertaining for little visitors, spotting wildlife and completing challenges along the way. Remember to print the sheets before you go, then hand in the completed ones to claim a nature sticker. Complete all three for a packet of seeds to start your own little farm at home!
Warburg Nature Reserve
A remote, tranquil valley high in the Chilterns, Warburg Nature Reserve is just a 30- minute jaunt from Nettlebed. Home to an astonishing variety of habitats, including ancient forests, chalk grasslands and scrub, visitors can spot a diverse assortment of flora and animals during their visit. Each season provides something unique here: In spring, the woodlands are carpeted with bluebells and woodland anemones; in early summer, the chalk grasslands are blooming with summer flowers such as pyramidal orchids, wild marjoram, and thyme; and in autumn, trees form a golden crimson canopy over meandering woodland walkways.
The reserve's main entrance houses a visitor centre with explanation displays, wildlife identification guides, and activity kits for youngsters to use on the Nature Detective Trails. You’ll also find a bird hide and wildlife garden nearby, perfect for avid twitchers.
Henley-on-Thames
A postcard-perfect riverside town, Henley-on-Thames boasts excellent boutique shops and eateries, plus a packed social calendar to boot. Best known for its annual royal regatta, which attracts some of the world's best rowers, there is also plenty to be said about coming during quieter times.
Sailing into Henley on the 33? Hop off at Bell Street, the Railway Station or at the Market Place.
The Riverside
Henley enjoys one of the most beautiful stretches the River Thames has to offer. Weeping willows, open green spaces and pretty boats lazily drifting across the water, it’s a lovely day out to just meander along the river and enjoy the sights and sounds of the town. Keep your eyes peeled for the Wishing Tree, a sycamore on the banks of the river. Visitors to the tree tie ribbons to the branches to make a wish, turning it’s boughs into a colourful masterpiece.
A little way north of the tree, you’ll find Mill Meadows. Covering acres of tranquil open space, the meadow is home to diverse wildlife, picturesque picnic spots and a great adventure golf course that’s sure to be fun for the whole family. Be sure to check out any events before you go, as plenty of walks, yoga and live music at the bandstand are regularly on offer.
Since 1839, the Henley Royal Regatta has taken the town by storm every summer. From humble origins as a local celebration, today the Regatta is attended by visitors from across the globe. Tickets sell out quickly to see over 400 races on the long weekend, with internationally acclaimed rowers and Olympic competitors taking part. With food, drinks and funny jackets all on show, it makes for an exciting day by the water.
The river itself teems with activity. Mute swans, Canada Geese, Mallards and Coots amble along river's edge. Look closely and you may spot dragonflies hovering while damselflies glide over the water's surface, and butterflies like the Meadow Brown, Small Skipper and Small Tortoiseshells fluttering through the grassland. Why not take a wildlife trail with you to find the best way to spot the critters and creatures that call Henley home?
Self-guided walking trails
Henley is small and storied enough that self-guided walks are easily one of the best ways to explore the town. Several routes are available for download before you hop aboard the 33, teaching you more about the history of the town’s buildings. Here are a few of our favourites.
The Henley Trail’s main focus is on the attractions and architecture of Henley. Visiting ice-age relics, celebrity haunts and country boundaries, the trail is an excellent way to learn a bit more about how Henley developed into the town we know today. From its humble origins and its time as the fourth largest port in England, its popularity with the rich and famous you’ll find it all and more on this route.
Visit all 10 Brakspear pubs in Henley on the Henley Ale Trail. More of a challenge than a walk, fire up the Brakspear app, downloadable here, to check in at each pub and claim a special T-shirt.
The trail can be completed over the course of a year, so don’t feel pressured to do it all at once. Brakspear are a Henley-based brewery, opening in 1779, operating now as a pub company. Their Oxford Gold and Gravity beers are ever popular in Oxfordshire, and make the perfect pint to enjoy by the Thames. Bringing a four-legged friend? Many of the pubs along the route are dog - and horse - friendly, so why not trot along and find out more?
Another option that is popular with visitors and locals alike is the Flower Pot Loop. A five-mile circular amble, the route takes you along the banks of the River Thames from your start point in Henley to the Flower Pot Hotel in Aston and back again. A charming pub built by Brakspear, the Flower Pot mixes contemporary lines and classic characterful appeal. Since the 1980s, the pub has been a favourite of celebs, TV and film, featuring in Miss Marple, Pie in the Sky and more. On your way back to Henley, you’ll pass through farmer’s’ fields and pretty viewpoints before heading back to the 33 bus stop.
Looking for more? Additional walks and advice can be found in the Grade II listed Town Hall, based in Market Square where the Tourist Information Centre is located.
Ancient inns
Henley is home to many public houses, some of which are on the Henley Ale Trail, but, for us, three stand out above the rest.
One of England's most photographed pubs is located near the Henley Bridge. The Angel on the Bridge has a colourful history and retains many of its original characteristics, including the stone abutments of an old wooden river bridge erected in 1170 and damaged during the Civil War in its cellar. The pub has riverside views, and the terrace outside is particularly popular during the warmer months.
Just across the street is the Red Lion Hotel, which was built in the 1600s as a coaching inn. The hotel has hosted numerous dignitaries, including King Charles I and Oliver Cromwell. The Prince Regent, who later became King George IV, is believed to have had 14 of their lamb chops in one sitting.
Closer to the town, the quaint Old Bell is documented as Henley's oldest bar, dating back to 1325. Vintage decor, low beamed walls, and a succession of chambers connect from the main bar. According to word of mouth, this is a popular local pub, and the welcome is warm and friendly.
Plan your journey to The Angel on the Bridge, Red Lion Hotel and The Old Bell.
Taking the 33
If you're planning to join the 33 bus route to visit any of these amazing places, or somewhere else, remember to plan your journey on the Oxford Bus app. Not only is it jam packed with timetables, service information and more, you'll also be able to plan your journey and may even find your tickets a little bit cheaper. Plus, with App Benefits, you'll be able to access exclusive discounts at various businesses in and around Oxford.